Thunder Pyramid (13,932 ft)  by Brian Schultz   Thursday  July 28, 2005

The Roaches refer to Thunder Pyramid as a hidden horror and advise to "approach this peak with the utmost care." We knew there'd be lots of loose rock and steep climbing but could only imagine the nightmare that awaited us. Tim, Jason, and I stayed at the Wildwood Lodge in Snowmass Village and as usual for a hard and/or long climb, we arose early. We drove up to the Maroon trailhead and were asked by a group waiting in the parking lot if we were the ones joining them for North Maroon. The inquiring group disappeared after we told them no.

After finishing getting ready, we headed out at 4:15 AM with headlamps shining, hoping to knock off the first three plus miles in the dark and, if our timing was right, begin the climbing part of the West Face route at first light.

We arrived at the creek crossing at 6:00, ideal timing, and stopped for a twenty minute breakfast break. Clear skies were a welcome sight and our climb began immediately with a bushwhack through the woods, an unpleasant task that had us stepping over many downed trees and crossing a couple waterfalls to gain higher ground. Rough cliffy areas had to be negotiated as well and though we found a reasonable means through them, quite frankly we didn't care much for the route. Perhaps we missed a better way but considering the lack of a trail, we did make it to the flat area below the all important white gully and the time was still reasonably early at 7:40.

After a short break we started up toward the white gully. Once in it, the climbing was pretty good on the left side but when we crossed it at 13,400 feet it changed for the worse. The last 500 feet to the summit ridge was on nasty loose rock, which shifted every time we moved, and made me glad to be wearing a helmet. Much to our surprise, two climbers were working their way up the base of the gully and we took extra caution to not knock rocks down on them. It was a relief to reach the summit ridge with just a short boulder hop remaining to the top and at 9:58 we arrived on the prized summit.

The weather was wonderfully warm and sunny and we were the first to sign the register this year. We noticed only 25 climbers had signed in all of last year, attesting that Thunder Pyramid is not as popular a destination as the neighboring fourteeners. Only one of the other two ascending climbers persevered to reach the summit and when he signed in, he looked at us inquisitively and asked which faces went with the names he recognized. He introduced himself as Kane Engelbert. I knew of him immediately from his postings on fourteenerworld and a lively conversation took place as if we were old friends, just like when I met Ryan Schilling, Erin Burr, and Kurt Traskos on Emerald Peak two years ago. Great fun!

We stayed on the summit for 50 minutes. When we departed at 10:48, Kane stayed behind and waited for us to descend the gully. Jason scooted down ahead of Tim and me and reached Kane's friend Josh below at the 13,400 ft crossover, and then all of us, including Kane, climbed down together from there and took an extended break at the flat area.

It was a beautiful day and the alpine scenery was spectacular, but as much as we wanted to hang around and talk, we had to drive 170 miles to Ridgway before it got too late. I'm sure Kane thought we were crazy when we said we were climbing Gladstone, Dallas and Teakettle in the next three days but we felt it was entirely possible, especially if the weather was as nice as today's. We parted company with Kane and Josh at the scenic rest area.

Instead of returning on our ascent route, we descended straight west on grassy slopes, rubble-filled gullies, and boulderfields all the way to the creek. At one point we barely found a workable route through the cliffs but it went and we were back to the creek at 1:40. A large backpacking group was taking a break there and we sat for a short one too. We hiked nonstop from the creek, passing many day hikers on the trail between Crater Lake and Maroon Lake, and arrived at the parking lot at 3:15.

This was a tough peak and even though it went better than expected, I won't return for a repeat. But we did have great weather, it was fun meeting Kane and his friend Josh, and the descent route worked out well.

Trailhead to summit- 5 hours 43 minutes

Summit to trailhead- 4 hours 27 minutes

Start to finish- 11 hours (including all breaks)

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