Tabeguache Peak (14,155), Mt Shavano (14,229), and Mt Antero (14,269) by Brian Schultz August 6-8, 2001
The backpacking trip to Browns Lake was organized a year ago when a good friend from church who's done this trip many times suggested we lead a group up Mt Antero. Bob has guided college students into the backcountry for years to experience the thrill of summiting Antero and I jumped at the opportunity to climb it from a different approach with our friends. It would also allow me to climb Tabeguache and Shavano as well. To work around people's schedules we decided to lead two separate groups- for those who wanted to gradually adjust to the altitude and take two days to get to the lake, and those who wanted to bust up there in one. I'd be doing the one dayer, of course. In the end our group would be just six- Bob, his daughter Dena, her boyfriend Eric, myself, Corky and Diane.
Dena and Eric had summited Antero on the last college trip and would pack in with Bob while first-timers Corky and Diane would join me because of scheduling conflicts. All five of them would be taking Diamox to counter altitude sickness.
Bob, Dena and Eric began their backpack on Sunday while I drove from Alamosa to Poncha Springs. It was my first day off from hiking since last Sunday and I needed the rest. Corky and Diane met me at the Poncha Lodge that evening and we drove into Salida to eat. They were eagerly awaiting the backpacking adventure and were well prepared.
After breakfast on Monday morning we drove to the easily accessible Browns Creek trailhead. The parking lot had only a couple cars in it but the one with Minnesota plates assured us that Bob was on the trail. After fumbling with the heavy packs and getting them reasonably comfortable we started up at 8:30. The excellent trail was a pleasant change from my backpack on the awful Como Lake road a couple days ago. Even though it gained elevation quickly I didn't mind because it was so nice to be on a dirt path. We soon came to a junction with a broken, unreadable sign and had to choose the proverbial fork in the road- I pulled out the topo map and quite brilliantly picked the right turn. Fortunately, it was the correct one. The steepness eased as the gentle trail led through the woods and over a number of stream crossings. Good signs marked subsequent junctions and the route even shared the Colorado Trail for a brief segment- other than a few steep sections along the way the trail was a backpacker's delight.
Corky and Diane were having no problems at all with the altitude and our spirits were high. We got a few laughs from Bob's messages drawn in the dirt trail as we passed his previous night's camp area. Corky seemed to have an endless supply of energy as he'd push ahead and then wait for us but even he appreciated taking off the pack when we stopped for lunch at 12:30. We ate near the rushing creek and stayed 45 minutes, perhaps too long because we didn't want to put the packs on again. But we were motivated to get to the lake and at 1:15 began anew, not realizing how fairly close we were. Continuing through the woods and finally emerging into an open area, we hiked up one last stretch and saw Browns Lake ahead. We passed some good camping sites but pushed on to the far end of the lake where Bob told us to meet. Three very surprised faces greeted us when we pulled in at 2:20.
Bob couldn't believe we got there as fast as we did- he wasn't expecting us for at least two more hours. Which might have happened if we took the wrong turn earlier and hmmm....maybe he's the one who broke that sign! Our camping area was the same one he's stayed at in the past and it was a good one- nice big logs to sit on by the campfire and close to the stream for filtering water. The road from Baldwin Gulch ended near our area and Mt White stood high just across the way. After setting up our tents we gathered firewood to supply the fire Bob had just started, and later he and I took a hike through the trees on the other side of the stream so I could check out the route for Tabeguache in the morning. We had a wonderful fire in the evening and so far the Diamox was working but all five of them commented on the tingling sensation and how terrible Pepsi tasted. Rain chased us into our tents after night fell but it soon quit and Corky yelled for us to come back to the campfire. Our first night out was great.
Backpack to Browns Lake- 5 hours 50 minutes
Tabeguache Peak and Mt Shavano:
The Tuesday morning sky was overcast at 6:30 as I crossed the stream near camp. There were a few cairns in the woods but otherwise the sketchy trail led through the trees and straight into a drainage. Roach says to climb up the grassy slope but I was advised by returning climbers yesterday to stay in the drainage and I did so. I watched a group of four behind me embark on the grassy slope route as I forged ahead to where the drainage splits into two separate gullies. I climbed up the smaller one on the right while the larger one curved to the left and appeared to dead-end. The ascent up loose rock and scree was steep and got worse as I climbed higher. When I had my fill of it I cut up the slope to my left on a miserable but short section of scree. It put me on grassy terrain with easy hiking to the connecting ridge between Point 13712 and Tabeguache; then a right turn and an easy jaunt up the ridge put me on the summit at 8:43. (The gully would have worked too).
I couldn't have asked for better weather while I sat alone on the summit. There was nobody in sight from the group who started after me so maybe this was the better route. I studied Antero for a while, anticipating our climb on it in the morning and wondering which gully near Mt White we'd be descending back to Browns Lake. After 30 minutes of summit bliss I headed down for the traverse to Shavano. It's been six years since I've done this same traverse but I must be getting faster or more efficient because it only took 42 minutes to get to Shavano's summit. I arrived at 9:55 and settled down for an extended stay.
From my vantage point I gazed intently at the rough ridge to Jones Peak, a thirteener I'd like to climb if I come back again. The other group of climbers finally showed up, two fellows at first, then a guy and gal. She and her friend stayed just long enough to yank out a cell phone and make a call before heading to Tabeguache while the first two stuck around for lunch and would bag only Shavano. After they left I spent the remainder of my long hour on top watching the clouds swirling around the peaks and drifting by. Totally relaxing!
I departed at 10:55 on my same route and without incident got back to camp at 12:30. The other four climbers trooped by a little later. Bob was taking our group up to a mine on the slope below Jones Peak but I passed on the invitation and instead hiked to the other end of the lake and down the trail to 11,160 feet elevation, giving me the official 3000 feet descent for Shavano. Another great evening around the campfire with clear skies until a rainstorm moved in and unleashed its fury on us.
Campground to Tabeguache- 2 hours 13 minutes
Tabeguache to Shavano- 42 minutes
Shavano to campground- 1 hours 35 minutes
Total hiking time- 6 hours (including all breaks)
Mt Antero:
The morning sunrise on Tabeguache's ridge gave hope for good weather. Our group was a bit slow making breakfast and loading up packs but I couldn't complain- it was great to be together and we'd waited a long time for this day. We finally departed at 7:20. The route was simple- we'd follow the road, except for a short hike through the trees, all the way to the high pass and then follow the standard route up to the summit. Bob, our biology expert and retired teacher, led the group and identified flowers, trees and many other features as we trudged up the road. Eric, a biology student, proved to be very knowledgeable too and I especially enjoyed their putting names to flowers I've often seen on fourteener hikes.
There would be no speed record set by our group of six as we stopped regularly to comment on sightings. Bob identified many of the surrounding lower peaks as well as routes to reach them and pointed to a cabin that he's watched deteriorate over the years. As we gained elevation, other than very slight altitude effects on Dena and Eric, everybody was holding up well. When the road leveled out in a grassy area we stopped for a long lunch break, admiring the impressive view of Tabeguache and Shavano behind us, and ahead to Antero where, unfortunately, the weather was clouding up quickly. The road switchbacked steeply once we started again- Bob, Dena, and Eric lagged behind while Corky, Diane, and I pushed to the pass. I didn't like the way the clouds looked as we waited for the others but they finally caught up and after a brief break we started up the ridge.
Corky was itching to get to the summit and I couldn't blame him- he pushed ahead and our group split again. With the summit so close and the weather looking worse, I hollered back to Dena that we were going for the top. We all wanted to summit together but I couldn't let Corky and Diane miss their chance so up we went. Diane began slowing a bit and encouraged us to go ahead- Corky and I bounded up and made the summit at 11:52. Five minutes later she arrived and fifteen minutes later the rest of the group made it. We did it! A joyous celebration ensued as the flatlanders commanded the summit. But with the worrisome clouds building up we stayed only for picture taking and a brief lunch and descended at 12:30.
I dropped down the ridge pretty fast and waited by the rocky outcropping until everyone caught up. When we reached the road, many ATVs had congregated with the occupants standing about in conversation. We visited for a while but I was eager to get back to camp because I still had to backpack out today in uncertain weather. Following the road down to the flat expanse, we cut across the grassy terrain to Mt White where I pushed ahead and waited until Bob showed me which gully we'd be descending. The highlight of the day for me came next when I boot skied the scree nearly the whole way down. It was a total blast and fast!
I hurried ahead to camp, got there at 2:29, and had my backpack loaded up before everyone returned at 3:15. We said our goodbyes and three minutes later I headed down the trail for the long haul out. Expecting to be caught in a storm I scurried around the lake and hurried for the safety of the trees below. But it only sprinkled a little as I caught up to horses and riders and nearly kept pace with them through the woods. Stopping for just a few water and rest breaks, I reached the trailhead at 6:02 in time to see the horseback riders patting their horses goodbye.
This was one of the best backpacking trips I've taken- an excellent trail, an exceptional campsite, and great access to the three fourteeners. The company of good Minnesota friends tied it all together into an unforgettable experience. For those not wanting to backpack, Browns Lake can be reached by four wheel drive from the Baldwin Gulch road.
Campground to Mt Antero- 4 hours 32 minutes
Mt Antero to campground- 2 hours
Total hiking time- 7 hours 7 minutes
Backpack from Browns Lake to trailhead- 2 hours 44 minutes