Maroon Peak (14,156) by Brian Schultz Tuesday August 15, 2000
After climbing North Maroon on Sunday, I desperately needed Monday off to rest my feet. My toes were swollen and four of the nails were already black from the bruising on the steep descent. While I was limping around Snowmass Village and hoping I could get back into my hiking boots in the morning, Jason drove to Ashcroft and climbed Castle Peak. He made the summit but threatening weather sent him down without bagging Conundrum.
I was looking forward to seeing Tim and telling him of our successful climb because we discussed all year of doing the traverse if Jason and I were turned back on North Maroon. Tim arrived on schedule and was glad to find our objective would be just South Maroon. After a good meal and the usual discussion of fourteeners we went to bed early- Jason wasn't too wild about getting up at 3:30 A.M. but early starts tend to increase the odds of success and I would've risen earlier if necessary.
I was awake before the alarm again. After I carefully and very slowly put on my boots, we gathered up the packs and drove up to Maroon Lake, with Tim driving separately. I almost hit a deer along the way. We started from the parking lot at 4:30 under a bright moon which lit the path until incoming thick clouds required the use of flashlights. I was worried about the weather- it was rainy yesterday in the Village and I didn't like these clouds. Also, last year my group had to turn back from 13300 feet because of weather conditions and I didn't want a repeat.
We kept a good pace and at Crater Lake the guys put me in the lead. I hoped they weren't counting on me to get them to the top! But I did remember the trail being fine all the way to the creek and we got there at 6:15, taking a 20 minute break before starting up the very steep slopes of the ridge. The best slopes trail is well defined and we followed it up the grass and rock before it faded out in an area where I thought it was too early to cut up. Jason and Tim kept angling up while I stayed below. It wasn't too long before Tim said they found the path and I had to climb straight up over steep and loose terrain to catch them- so much for my memory! The grueling mini ridges were now behind us and the route took us up the steep ridge to 13,300 ft. The time was 8:45 and we felt great about gaining 2,800 feet from the creek in just over 2 hours but it was very tiring nonetheless. My feet were sore but holding up well.
On our 10 minute break here we studied Dawson's photo and matched the scene ahead. While the photo is very impressive and confirmed our position, it's of little use for following the remainder of the route. We found his route description itself much more helpful and accurate. Following the ridge a short distance we came to the area where I got off track a year ago. I believe the crux of the route is finding and ascending a steep chute (chimney?- not quite sure of the proper description) that, while obvious, can be missed. There was no cairn here but we assumed one existed before and was perhaps knocked down. On our way down we built cairns at the top and bottom of the chute.
We scooted up the chute, then another, and found the remaining route well marked. At times we needed to pick the correct cairns but someone had tied ribbons on many, making this job much easier. The climbing was difficult as we zigzagged up and down many ledges, couloirs and more ledges, interspersed with considerable exposure and much loose rock but I found it all to be immensely fun. It helped that the the skies had cleared and the weather wasn't going to be a problem. Eventually we made it to the bigger couloir that Dawson describes- besides being very steep it was full of lots of loose junk. It slowed me down while Jason and Tim climbed up ahead- they found the exit ledge easily and waited for me to catch up. The route brought us around the back side of the peak where we were finally able to push for the summit. It's an incredible route to get to this point. We climbed the steep rocks and Jason, impatient to get to the top, scrambled ahead to the summit while Tim and I slowly worked our way up.
Tim pushed on ahead too, arriving on the summit a couple minutes before me, but at 10:48 I stepped on top of my last Elk fourteener and perhaps the hardest one of all. It took 2 hours of tough climbing to get from Point 13300 to the summit. Total climb time from the parking lot to the summit was 6 hours 18 minutes.
The beautiful day afforded another long stay on the summit and we had it to ourselves. We spotted climbers on top of North Maroon and Pyramid and discussed the amazing route on South Maroon, wondering how someone ever figured it out. The efforts of those who marked this route are fully appreciated when you realize routefinding without cairns would be nearly impossible.
This was Tim's last Elk fourteener also and we both expressed relief to be done with them. Jason declared he would do this one again. I doubted another visit for me but it felt good to be on the summit as we soaked up the sun, ate lunch and took pictures.
At 11:45 we departed and made the descent to Point 13300 in good time, getting there in 1 hour and 30 minutes. We split up here as Tim wanted to get home for family obligations and I encouraged him to go ahead since my now hurting feet would just slow him down. He also wasn't feeling well but started down while Jason and I took a short break. Jason decided he wanted to get down quicker too and went ahead. I watched him catch up to Tim as I kept a much slower pace.
Jason was waiting at the creek for me and left again after I arrived safely. The descent to the creek from the slopes was brutal and drained most of my remaining energy and water with over 3 miles yet to go. At Crater Lake a friendly couple asked me to snap their photo with the Bells in the background. I was so tired but couldn't say no- how could I after glancing back and telling them I was just up there? Although we never passed anyone in either direction on the peak itself, I now had the company of many tourists on the trail to Maroon Lake. I finally reached the parking lot at 4:35, out of water, dehydrated, and completely exhausted, but supremely happy.
This peak might make the top of my list for hardest fourteeners.
Total climbing time- 12 hours 5 minutes (including 1 hour on top and many breaks)