Mt Wilson (14,246) by Brian Schultz Friday July 19, 2002
My day off yesterday was spent in Telluride to rest and do basically nothing. I did a good job of it too. After six straight days on the peaks my tired body needed some time off, especially before tackling Mt Wilson. Last summer, Jason and I canceled this peak after he blew his knee out on Handies but after a long and successful recovery, Jason resumed climbing this year and was now closing in on his fourteener finish. I had another reason to return besides joining Jason for his 50th fourteener. When I climbed it four years ago I described the summit ridge as a white knuckle finish and I wanted to see how the second time would compare.
Another fellow from Denver would be accompanying us. Patrick had read my trip reports and asked if I was doing any class 4 climbs this summer. And if so, he wondered if he could join me. I asked Jason his thoughts on bringing someone along with unknown abilities and he said as long as this guy didn't prevent our summit bid it was okay with him. Patrick assured me he could maintain a strong pace. Continuing correspondence with Patrick led him to inquire where I lived in Minnesota because he once lived there too but when he told me the year and school he graduated from I was stunned. We graduated together! I never knew him, which is no surprise in a class of well over 1,000 students, but how odd to make this kind of connection so many years later. Small world!
This would be my fifth trip to the Silver Pick trailhead and sixth time in the Silver Pick Basin. The road to the trailhead was good except for one short rough section, just beyond where I parked my car in 1999 at a turnout with a campsite. A passenger car with decent clearance could handle it. Patrick arrived shortly after me and we talked like old friends about our school days. Jason drove straight in from climbing Kit Carson and arrived just before dark. After introductions we prepared our packs and turned in.
We got up at 5:00 and left at 5:33 under clear skies. The shortcut trail after the mine was still marked with a cairn but we stayed on the main road and followed the old road into the Silver Pick Basin. We stopped briefly at the large run-down mine building (elev.12,140 ft). Drought conditions have left the basin mostly snow-free except for a dirty patch beyond the mine building and after crossing it, Jason and I headed up the slope to the right. Above it is a good trail that can't be seen from below and it goes handily to the Rock of Ages saddle but Patrick insisted on staying low in the basin and going straight ahead where the terrain is flatter and looks easier. Jason and I grunted up the steep side and watched Patrick aim forward while we gained elevation. We reached the saddle at 7:38 and sat down to wait for him. Half an hour later he arrived by way of the same trail we took, having backtracked to gain it, and without stopping for a rest he continued past us and down into Navajo Basin.
Before Patrick showed up at the saddle, Jason and I were studying the North Slopes route of El Diente. It was his next peak to climb and he wanted to do that route tomorrow because of its close proximity. After my experience on it three years ago, I encouraged him to climb it from the Kilpacker Basin. He looked warily at the steep scree slopes and wondered which way our two neighbors would be climbing it in the morning, thinking he might join them if they were climbing from this side.
Jason and I descended into Navajo Basin feeling optimistic about reaching the summit. The morning was still sunny and Patrick was holding his own. At 12,300 feet the three of us started up and found a nicely cairned route on the shoulder. I never saw cairns four years ago when I climbed Mt Wilson but these excellently placed markers led all the way up. Patrick lagged behind as Jason and I gained the rocky slope and crossed into the very loose, very steep gully leading to the notch on the ridge. There was no snow in it. I climbed up to the notch and viewed the other side before traversing over to a small clearing below the summit ridge while Jason did a more direct line to it from the gully. We waited for Patrick and when he caught up he said to go on because he now needed a rest. I stashed my poles but kept the pack on as well as my camera fanny pack.
The fun began as soon as Jason asked which side we should take. I told him to go with whatever felt comfortable. Up we went, over the top, on the sides, again on the top, and before long we were on the summit! The time was 10:33, exactly five hours from the trailhead. Although the exposure was intense, I wasn't gripped with fear like the first time and quite honestly, I wished the ridge was longer. The only thing I was uncomfortable with was my fanny pack rubbing against the rocks and preventing closer contact. After a bit of coaching Patrick along the ridge, he too joined us and proclaimed it the hardest fourteener he's ever done. We had the small summit to ourselves and this time better weather allowed a longer stay but not by much. Threatening clouds loomed in the distance.
We departed at 11:00 and instead of returning over the ridge we dropped down below it and to the right, the same way I did four years ago. After retrieving my poles, we soon encountered our still ascending neighbors who, despite the late hour and incoming weather, informed us they'd be climbing Wilson Peak also today. After safely crossing the steep gully, Jason and I carefully angled our way down while Patrick stayed high. When we got back to 12,300 feet in Navajo Basin we sat down and waited again for Patrick. When he caught up a half hour later we began the weary trudge to the saddle, a very unpleasant regain of 700 feet elevation.
A brief rain fell as we descended the Silver Pick Basin and other than passing some guys backpacking to Navajo Basin, the remaining hike out was uneventful. We got back to the trailhead at 3:04. Patrick went home, Jason stayed to ponder his route on El Diente, and I drove to Lake City to climb two thirteeners. I'd be meeting Jason again tomorrow night for Uncompahgre on Sunday.
My second time on Mt Wilson didn't disappoint. This was a fun day and even though the summit ridge didn't scare the wits out of me, it was still exhilarating.
Total hiking time- 9 hours 31 minutes including all breaks