Mauna Kea (13,796) Hawaii by Brian Schultz Saturday September 14, 2002
This was my second trip to Hawaii this year. I went alone in February the first time to visit our daughter in Honolulu who was serving a college internship. It was a short trip- I could only sneak away for six days- but we toured much of Oahu, including hiking up Diamond Head, and I told her if I ever returned to Hawaii I'd climb Mauna Kea. I didn't think it would happen this soon, let alone this year, but she moved back to Hawaii after graduating in April. With her living so far away and her mom missing her, suffice it to say our travel plans in September took a detour and I jumped at the chance to mix in a climb. We left Minnesota a bit anxious about flying the day before Sept 11th but all went well and three days later I parted ways with mom and daughter and flew to the Big Island.
Mauna Kea is a dormant volcano and the highest peak in Hawaii. Considered very sacred, it's also an ideal location for astronomers as evidenced by numerous observatories near the summit. Its slightly lower neighbor, Mauna Loa, is still active and I got a thrilling view of both peaks and the observatories while flying to the Big Island.
The summit was entirely clear when I landed but heavy clouds shrouded the rest of the island. I had a notion to climb the peak right away, especially with the forecast calling for rainy weather the next day but, lacking enough time to get the climb in before dark, I kept to my schedule and spent my first day sightseeing along the east coast and later driving through Volcanoes National Park. The National Park was interesting but my favorite part was getting close enough to watch the lava flowing and burning everything in its path, and completely cutting off the road on its way to the ocean. Although fascinating to behold, the noxious fumes forced a hasty retreat after just a few minutes.
I left for Mauna Kea at 4:45 AM in total darkness. The drive to the visitor center from Hilo took and hour and fifteen minutes and it rained most of the way, quitting just before I got there. A chilly morning greeted me when I stepped out of the car. The temperature was only 40 degrees compared to 73 earlier at Hilo but the sky was clearing nicely as I readied my pack and signed the self register.
The route begins at an elevation of 9,200 feet and gains nearly 4,600 feet to the summit. The round trip is 12 miles. I started at 6:25 and crossed the road to a dirt trail that ascended immediately but unfortunately not in the right direction. It turned out to be a footpath for tourists seeking a higher vantage point. I stayed on it anyway and descended the other side before bushwhacking up the slopes to the right, all the while hoping I'd intersect the trail. The small map I grabbed at the register showed the trail paralleling the road and I would've hiked the road if necessary, but luck was with me and I happened right upon it. (The correct route begins just up the road from the visitor center, on a side road across from some maintenance buildings).
The elevation gain was steep initially but the trail was excellent. Consisting of mostly soft dirt and sand, and a bit of scree and small talus in some areas, it was no harder than class 1 hiking. There was a noticeable lack of cairns along the trail but tall stakes marked the trail at intervals and though they weren't necessary on this clear day, they'd sure be handy in a snowstorm. And Mauna Kea does get snow. I was breathing hard and took my first break at 7:55 at approximately 11,270 ft. My body was trying to adjust to going from 38 feet elevation in Hilo to nearly 14,000 in the same day and not doing well.
After a fifteen minute break I started up but stopped again in an hour. I plopped down for another ten minutes to catch my breath and while gazing about reflected how similar the barren and desolate terrain was to Mt Kilimanjaro. It felt like I was on a mini-version of the bigger peak as I sat and watched the clouds building toward Mauna Loa.
I started again and plodded along until the trail forked. The main trail went to the right but I turned left to catch a glimpse of Lake Waiau at 13,020 feet, which I didn't descend to because I didn't want to regain the elevation. After continuing on, the trail soon topped out on a rise and I knew I was getting close when I saw some observatories ahead. It was 10:00 and the trail was about to end at the road, where a mile still remained to the summit. I trudged up the road and paused at the next mile marker sign where I could've walked straight ahead to some more observatories but instead I jumped over the guardrail and followed a faint trail to the saddle below Mauna Kea's summit. From there it was a short and easy sprint to the top, which I claimed at 10:58.
It took 4 hours and 33 minutes to get there, not the best timing, but I didn't care. It was great to be on the summit and I had it to myself. That is, until someone who parked at the observatories walked up and joined me, reminding me of the many who drive to Mt Evans in Colorado and stroll up to the summit. He didn't stay long but pleaded with me to sell him a roll of film, which I did. The views of all the other craters were quite stunning from the top but I didn't stay long either because I had a flight to catch.
I tried to eat lunch before leaving but hundreds of small flies made it difficult. A shrine on the summit was loaded up with fruit and other food offerings and I'm sure it drew all those annoying flies. I left at 11:30 and returned the same way. Just below the lake I passed four older gentlemen who asked how much longer it was to the summit- they were the only others I saw hiking the trail today and they looked beat. After a short visit with them, I hurried down the trail as clouds began blanketing the entire area, resembling Mt Kilimanjaro even more so, but they never fogged in to the point of worrying about losing the route. I made it back to the visitor center at 1:35 and while repacking my luggage a friendly park ranger named Pablo came over to talk. He saw me on the summit while driving the road and was surprised to see me back so soon. My descent actually was pretty fast (six miles in two hours) and he smiled when I told him I was motivated to not miss my flight. I suggested he check on those four men I passed earlier, and after chatting with some others in the parking lot I drove back to Hilo with plenty of time to spare. This was a super fun day.
Total hiking time- 7 hours 10 minutes including all breaks