Jupiter Mountain (13,830 feet) by Brian Schultz Sunday July 18, 2004
Saturday:
Tim and I had a great breakfast at the Carver Brewing Company in Durango before boarding the train. We were both in a good mood at the thought of spending only one night in the backcountry but nevertheless waited until the last minute to board. For me, five trips in six years have diminished the thrill of being seated any earlier than necessary.
We were dropped off at Needleton at 11:30 with about two dozen others. Six of us were backpacking, a few were staying at the cabins, and the remainder were rafting. Interestingly, two of the other four backpackers hailed from my home state of Minnesota.
A conductor told us that 105 backpackers were picked up yesterday at Needleton. We also heard that a number of people were cited in Chicago Basin for tenting in the posted "no camping" areas and although we didn't travel that far up the basin, we found those areas to be well marked on our travels the next day. There isn't a shortage of places to camp- no one should have to worry about getting cited if they look for the signs.
At 11:50, Tim and I headed across the bridge and followed the trail to Needle Creek. This was my eighth straight day of hiking and my legs were still good but the rest of me was pretty worn out. Tim let me lead and we pushed up the trail at a steady pace, stopping only once to take off the packs for a break. We reached the trail junction at 11,000 feet, made a dicey crossing of the swift flowing Needle Creek, and headed up to same the campsite I stayed at three years ago. The time was 3:25 and Tim was very pleased at arriving as quickly as we did.
After setting up the tents, Tim wanted to scout our route (Jupiter's Southwest Slopes) and possibly hike to Columbine Pass but I declined in favor of washing up, relaxing, and making dinner before the storm clouds rolled in. When he said he'd be back before dark I got a little nervous, and even more so when thunder started rumbling later, but he returned long before dark and found me napping when he arrived. Tim traveled the loop in the basin and said it was a great hike.
While he ate, I noticed two hikers down by the creek and went to visit. They were photographing Needle Creek with camera and tripod and hoping to get published in the October National Geographic Adventure issue. Their photo excursion also included a climb of Mt Eolus. The storms that threatened earlier never materialized and the evening turned out to be beautiful. We called it a night after dark.
Sunday:
I stuffed everything but the tent into my backpack and tied it up in a tree- the marmots and goats would have to go somewhere else for lunch. At 5:35, we started up the steep trail under overcast skies and stopped to filter some water after the terrain leveled out. The early threat of weather was a concern as we hiked to the grassy slopes of Jupiter but as the morning progressed, the clouds moved on. We bushwhacked up the steep slopes by ascending the left side and then angling over to the 12,900 ft. saddle on the ridge. We stopped at the saddle for a break at 7:15 and noticed two climbers below the other side who appeared to be contemplating a route or were lost. It's possible they were attempting one of Jupiter's other routes but we didn't see them anymore over the next couple hours.
After the short break, we headed for the false summit under much improved skies and reached it at 8:00. We were taken aback by the stunning view of Windom and Sunlight Peaks and stopped for a moment to savor it. The gnarly looking ridge to the summit prompted us to stash our trekking poles but true to the Roaches' description, the climb is easier than it looks and we topped out on the exposed summit at 8:15. Blocks similar to neighboring Windom Peak comprise the summit and we settled in for a full hour enjoying exceptional views of the San Juans. It was especially neat to see Rio Grande Pyramid, the centennial thirteener that we climbed just three days ago.
We departed at 9:15 and once below the grassy slopes took the loop route that Tim was on yesterday. Several backpackers were heading up the excellent trail, including three young women who proudly recounted their successful climb of Windom yesterday. This is a wonderful route for a different perspective of scenic Chicago Basin and a must-do if you have time. We made it back to camp at 1:15 and had the company of five goats as we packed up.
By 11:50, we were loaded up and hit the trail again but soon stopped to put on rain jackets as light drizzle turned to rain. The weather took a turn for the worse as storms began thundering all around us but we were fortunate- only intermittent showers accompanied us down to the Animas River. The last three-quarters of a mile to Needleton seemed to take forever but our overall hike out went fairly fast. We pulled in at 2:20, only two and a half hours from camp, and the reemergence of the sun allowed us to dry out before the train's arrival.
I met one of the cabin owners during the hour and a half wait for the train, a very nice person who remarked on how long the cabin has been in the family and recollected when the train ride was just a few dollars. A large number of backpackers had congregated by the time our train pulled in, many of them scouts and their leaders who climbed the ever popular Windom Peak, and as we boarded, my thoughts turned to a shower and steak dinner.
The long ride to Durango had some light moments. Our train stopped on a side track and waited while a passing diesel powered train pulled up and also stopped, a "party train" whose occupants were heading to Cascade for dinner and whose drinking was well under way. Apparently they were a thirsty group because our conductor handed over all the champagne he could round up to his counterpart on that train before they continued on. Also, in the front of our car, three guys were playing cards and betting money, so immersed in their game that not once did they look out the window at the scenery. They were in their own little world and we laughed at their paying $60.00 for a train ticket just to gamble. After a 6:30 arrival in Durango, we cleaned up and headed over to our favorite steak joint, the Ore House.
Jupiter Mountain was a fun climb and a nice finish to the trip. Nine straight days of climbing and hiking over 100 miles makes for a weary body though- next year I may have to throw a rest day in.
Needleton to camp at 11,000 ft- 3 hours 35 minutes
Camp to summit- 2 hours 40 minutes
Summit back to camp- 2 hours
Camp to Needleton- 2 hours 30 minutes