Jagged Mountain (13,824 feet) by Brian Schultz August 16-18, 2005
Monday August 15
Finishing early on my Mt Oklahoma climb allowed for a leisurely drive to Creede and I arrived well ahead of Tim. Many of the town's restaurants were closed with signs on the doors saying "Closed for employee appreciation day" or something like that, but the Bronco Grill was open and we ended up eating there, enjoying the daily special and keenly noting that Thursday's special was enchiladas. I told Tim we better make Jagged on our first try so we could get back for those enchiladas. After dinner we drove to the Thirty Mile Campground (at the Rio Grande Reservoir) to carcamp in the free backpackers parking area. Our plan was to leave my car there in the morning and drive to the Beartown trailhead in Tim's truck, but just as we were preparing to turn in a fellow drove up and said we couldn't park there. No overnight sleeping was permitted, he explained, and suggested that we either pay for a site in the campground or continue up the road to the Ute Creek trailhead where we could camp for free. That's what we ended up doing since we'd be driving past it anyway in the morning. The Ute Creek trailhead parking area was very nice and had lots of room for tent campers and carcampers.
Tuesday August 16
We picked the Beartown trailhead for several reasons. First of all, neither of us wanted to ride the train. We've had our fill of the train over the last few years and departing at Needleton for the Noname Creek approach would entail three nights in the backcountry. It also has a difficult section near its beginning which didn't appeal to us carrying heavy packs. Sunlight Creek, on the other hand, is a longer approach and has more elevation gain but the possibility of needing only two nights out was irresistible and ultimately what persuaded us to start from Beartown. We were also inspired to use this approach after reading Terri Horvath's trip report.
The directions to Beartown aren't in the Roaches' Jagged description- read the Vestal Peak and Rio Grande Pyramid chapters to piece them together. We left the Ute Creek trailhead around 7:00 AM after readying our backpacks. The fifteen miles to the Beartown trailhead took a full two hours to drive and it's not a bad road for the most part but it's slow. Besides the steep Timber Hill section, which didn't live up to its reputation for being difficult even though it was wet, one other notable part of the drive was fourwheeling over a talus slope with no tracks or ruts to follow. We just bounced along over the rocks. Upon reaching the trailhead we were definitely in no man's land and tried not to dwell on the fact that help was a long ways off if needed. It was a very unsettling feeling knowing Creede was three hours driving time away before even stepping foot on the trail.
There were several vehicles parked at the trailhead but we didn't see anyone about. At 9:10 AM, Tim and I officially began our wilderness adventure under heavily overcast skies, and much to our dismay it started raining only three minutes later. Our loads were heavier than usual because we packed climbing gear, in my case the rope added eight extra pounds and I could feel the strain immediately. Expecting to be out two nights but allowing for three, I wasn't willing to cut weight by packing less clothing and food. Tim, however, packed just the barest minimum of clothing.
We hiked up to Hunchback Pass in forty minutes and mused about the rain pattern. The mountains have seen lots of rain since we finished Teakettle two weeks ago and I sure didn't want to climb Jagged in the rain, or in wet conditions for that matter. The forecast called for clearing days on Wednesday and Thursday, with Thursday being the better day. The rain quit briefly as we descended the lush slopes but brushing against the vegetation kept us wet, and as the day progressed, intermittent showers and creek fordings made sure we stayed that way. Not pleasant hiking conditions with heavy packs.
The slopes gave way to forest and after entering the woods we encountered a group of backpackers heading up. We asked if they had climbed anything but they were only backpacking. The trail to Vallecito Creek has several stream crossings and most were easy to rock-hop across. We noticed a few dirty snow patches remaining along the trail, covered by clumps of branches, but the trail itself was well maintained and recently cleared of downed trees. Heartened to finally see the sun come out for a stretch, we stopped for a brief rest to take the packs off. After resuming, we didn't travel far before seeing a sign marking Rock Creek ahead, which we appreciated since we were following along with our maps.
We were quite surprised to come upon a fellow at Rock Creek who was sitting and lacing his boots, and even more so when three young men with fishing poles approached from the other side- strange to have three separate parties converging at the same time in such a remote area. The three young fellows were wearing sneakers and walked right through the deep and fast flowing creek as Tim and I sat down to remove our boots. This would be the first of four creek fordings where we'd have to remove socks and boots and I was glad to have Teva sandals with. Tim went barefoot, having left his in the truck. He didn't think he'd need them and the only reason I brought mine was to get out of my boots at camp. The crossing was short but the water was freezing cold.
All parties headed in different directions from Rock Creek. Tim and I of course continued along the trail to Vallecito Creek and upon nearing it, started looking across for the correct drainage for Sunlight Creek. No handy sign was posted like the one at Rock Creek so we checked the maps and re-read the directions several times to make sure we were in the right spot. Be warned that there's a good side trail to the creek prior to the confluence of Sunlight and Vallecito but it's not the correct one- we hiked it a short distance before turning around.
The Roaches write that the Vallecito crossing isn't normally a problem in August but this obviously wasn't a normal year. The San Juans received an enormous amount of snow over the winter and spring, and the creek was raging today. We searched a long time for a suitable crossing and ended up walking downstream from the confluence for perhaps 300 yards. The creek was much wider there but considerably safer and we could hardly believe our luck to find a fixed line attached to trees on both sides, old ropes tied together and fraying badly but quite usable for hanging on to. Tim didn't want to risk cutting his feet or slipping so he put his boots back on, minus the socks, and sloshed through the creek. Unfortunately for him, his boots remained waterlogged for the duration of the trip.
As we sat lacing our boots on the other side, thunder started rumbling and we ducked under the trees while it rained. Thus far, we'd hiked from 11,700 feet elevation at the trailhead to 12,500 feet at Hunchback Pass, back down to 9,640 feet at Vallecito Creek, and would be ascending again to at least 11,000 feet for camp. The up and down journey to Vallecito Creek also covered nearly 8 miles, a grunt with heavy backpacks but nothing compared to what lay ahead.
With no storms materializing, we continued along the other side of Vallecito Creek and quickly reached Sunlight Creek, a narrow but raging creek requiring another ford. Had I known about the ford, I would've just kept the sandals on after the Vallecito crossing but off came the boots again. We spotted tents in a clearing and several pairs of socks drying on some large boulders but didn't see anyone around. Mildly alarmed when the trail on the north side steered away from the creek but relieved when it curved back, we marched ahead thinking we had it made. Wishful thinking, for we soon came upon a wake of downed trees.
Knocked down like dominoes, the wide field of fallen timber was spread from high on the slopes all the way to the creek below. At first the trail was discernible under the trees but when it disappeared we looked for a better way. We considered following closer to the creek but both sides of it were so full of the downed trees that we had little choice but to forge ahead. We encountered two more fellows descending who'd hiked up to a high lake and when we asked about the downed trees, they informed us to expect nearly three-fourths of a mile total of tree hopping. Negotiating the trees with the heavy packs became a difficult and time-consuming exercise but we were glad we didn't stop at the Vallecito to camp because an early morning departure from there, even with lighter packs, would've been nearly impossible in the dark.
After making slow progress we made what turned out to be a costly mistake. Thinking we could avoid the last of the downed trees by angling up the slope to our right and regaining the trail higher up, we headed up only to find ourselves in one predicament after another. Led on by hit and miss paths, we ascended steep terrain through the woods and at times pondered making camp, but kept pushing up to get as high as we could. Sunlight Creek wasn't that far from us initially but we soon began hiking away from it as the forested slopes narrowed. We ran into dead-end walls and steep cliffs but always found a way up or around them while Sunlight Creek became more distant below us. The route description said we should be following the creek but we were way above it, and worse, we could see a trail on the other side of it. The heavy packs were taking their toll but we persisted until reaching just over 11,500 feet, where we stopped to take stock of our situation.
Cliffs on our left side blocked a traverse to the creek. We could've continued up further but we were out of water and losing daylight, and we weren't sure if the narrowing slopes would cliff out or if a water source existed ahead. The decision was obvious but nonetheless painful. We'd have to turn around. While descending, Tim found a weakness in the cliffs and though it was steep and awkward with the packs, it worked and we made it back to Sunlight Creek. We dropped about 500 feet elevation to get there and as we looked back toward the cliffs, we realized how fortunate we were to find a reasonable way down. But with darkness near, we had to ford the creek yet again and quickly find a campsite. After wading through freezing water one last time, we headed up the trail to 11,100 feet and dropped our packs at the first flat spot we saw, a small clearing next to the trail. The time was 8:00 and suffice it to say, we were spent.
Tim put up the tent while I hiked down to the creek to filter some much needed water. Afterward, we collapsed in the tent. We were wet and cold and neither of us felt like eating, or climbing in the morning for that matter, but after warming up a bit in the sleeping bags we ventured out. It was raining while we made dinner so it didn't take long to get chilled again. Cold and miserable after eating, we prepared our packs and turned in. For the day, we backpacked nearly 12 miles including the errant diversion up the cliffs, but even without that error this is one of the hardest backpacks I've ever done. Unless or until the forest service cuts a path through all the downed timber, which is doubtful, one might consider a different approach for Jagged.
Wednesday August 17
We didn't want to start too early, not knowing the conditions of the trail, and get stuck bushwhacking in the dark, so we began at 5:40 AM. Our travel by headlamp would be brief and I was hoping our luck with the weather had turned after awakening earlier in the night to clear skies but no such luck. The cloud cover was already thick.
The trail started out good but we were quickly soaked by heavy vegetation and thick willows before crossing back over the creek, apparently destined to be as wet today as yesterday. We found rocks to hop across this time and a very good trail resumed on the other side. We continued along until encountering a wide stream where foolish me should have removed my boots before wading across but didn't. Now my boots were as waterlogged as Tim's.
First light revealed a glimpse of Jagged's towers as we began our ascent. We crossed through more thick vegetation, ascended a drainage on the right side of the towers, and climbed up steep grassy slopes to the bow shaped lake at 12,700 feet. In all the years I've hiked with Tim I can't remember him being as sluggish as he was today on the uphill and he admitted to not feeling strong when we reached the lake at 8:00. We both dreaded having to repeat the approach if the weather turned us back today but the skies were definitely improving and Tim was renewed when we stopped to filter water. Jagged's complicated ridge loomed above and after a 15 minute break we headed up to Jagged Pass (photo 1, photo 2), elevation 13,020 feet.
The winds increased by the time we reached the pass at 8:30 and we stopped briefly to put on gloves and helmets and glance ahead at the route. Several minutes later, with the clouds zipping by and both of us as ready as could be, we began the contour of Jagged's face. After crossing a snow patch we dropped our trekking poles in the snow, actually plunged them deep so marmots wouldn't run off with them, and quickly reached a 4th class crack. We scooted up a ledge just past the crack and a little later, while working up the face, realized that the ledge was actually the first crux without even knowing it. We were following the Roaches' route description closely but didn't think the first crux would come that fast! It really wasn't that hard and I thought if the other two cruxes were like that one, maybe this climb wouldn't be too bad.
The route zigzagged up steep grassy ledges, not hard difficulty-wise but a fall would undesirable. The face of Jagged is extremely steep and I was uneasy with the exposure as we worked up to the second crux, a class 4 chute requiring a reach and pull over a rounded edge. Tim did a variation of this crux by climbing up the very steep crack directly in front while I descended slightly to the right to climb the chute. Watching Tim made me glad I followed the Roaches' directions.
With only one crux remaining, we headed up more steep terrain and upon reaching the last crux, spent quite a bit of time deciding which of the two class 5 systems to climb. Tim started in the left crack but wasn't comfortable with it. I tried it and didn't like it either. Switching to the right crack and deciding it was easier, Tim suggested hoisting the packs up with the rope after he climbed up. We did that and although the stemming moves in the crack were a bit sketchy, we managed to freeclimb it and and proceeded up to the high notch, certain the hardest moves were behind us. If only that were so.
The scrambling to the notch was straightforward, and once on the other side we continued along following the excellent route description. For anyone not liking exposure, be forewarned- the drop-offs here are incredibly sheer. I found the exposure to be downright scary but the handholds and footholds were comfortably solid and all was going well, until we reached a difficult cross-over point that stopped us cold. I honestly thought it might end our bid for the summit as Tim started down the short chute and balked at the required step over because of the horrible exposure.
He asked me to check out the terrain above but it wasn't feasible. With the clock ticking and dark clouds building off to the west, we decided to rope up and belay each other across. Tim felt the protection of the rope was a huge mental boost and I was glad to have it as well but we ran thirty costly minutes off the clock in this area.
We soon approached a sandy ledge. It was narrow and had an overhang to slide under, with horrendous drop-offs on the right side. The thought of my pack catching and knocking me over the edge jangled my nerves enough to shed it. With the pack stowed, I slid under the overhang and we turned the corner to face the last remaining barrier to the summit. Tim thought the rope might be needed again for this chimney but I offered to climb up and see. The rope was not needed but the class 3 chimney (photo 1 photo 2) was quite steep and exposed.
From the top of the chimney, I scrambled halfway up the remaining blocks to the summit ridge and waited for Tim. Once he cleared the chimney I continued up to the summit ridge and waited again so he and I could touch the highest rock at the same time. It was a wonderful feeling, at 11:09, to triumphantly claim the summit after all the effort put into getting there. And a huge relief.
The surprisingly roomy summit offered terrific views of Jagged's other spires and the surrounding San Juan peaks but the dark clouds meant our stay would be short. We departed at 11:25 and by noon it was snowing, which didn't last long, but our cautious pace turned slower on the now wet rock. We belayed each other at the step-across chute and again at the class 5 crack. The downclimb of the crack turned out to be easy and could've been done without rope but we had it out anyway for lowering the packs and decided we might as well be safe and use it too.
The next crux was a different matter though, as the rock was so wet and slippery that we really needed the rope. Setting up a belay using previous placed slings, I went first, then the packs, then Tim. We had a lot of fun with this long belay and were glad to add it to our experience. We continued to the last crux, the ball bearing ramp, which was also wet but manageable without the rope. Tim slid a short distance down the ledge and then braced to catch my slide. The slippery exposed ramp was not as easy as it was on the ascent but the technical difficulties were finally behind us and we stopped at 1:25 to retrieve our poles and take a long break. The accomplishment of climbing Jagged fully sank in while relaxing on the lower face and life felt very good at the moment.
When we departed at 2:00, we went straight down the steep grassy slope to the oxbow shaped lake instead of contouring to Jagged Pass, and our descent to camp from there went without incident. We stayed on the snow in the drainage to avoid rock hopping, took off our boots to ford the wide stream, and actually arrived in camp dry, thanks to no further precipitation. Well, the boots were still wet but it was nice to brush through the foliage and not get soaked, and when we arrived at 4:00 we immediately packed up, hoping to make camp at either Vallecito or Rock Creek before dark.
At 4:35, we started down the trail we missed yesterday and discussed staying on the south side all the way but I wasn't interested in tackling downed trees or bushwhacking in terrain potentially worse than what we did yesterday. Tim agreed. As the trail crossed back to the north side of Sunlight Creek, boots were removed again to ford, and we continued on a well worn path toward Vallecito Creek. If not for the horrible stretch of downed trees the route would be a cinch, but once again we scrambled over and around them and arrived at the Sunlight Creek crossing at 6:45. This time I kept my sandals on for the short walk to the Vallecito crossing and after fording it, we set up camp. Turning in for the night came easy after our success today.
Thursday August 18
The weather was clear when we departed camp at 7:05 AM. Tim was highly energized but willing to maintain a slower tempo on the 6.5 mile ascent to Hunchback Pass. Our steady pace avoided the need for more frequent breaks and we made good time, passing by a large group of backpackers heading to Chicago Basin, and reaching Hunchback Pass at 12:00 noon. Forty minutes later we were back at the truck. The best feeling in the world was getting the pack off and knowing a hot shower was ahead. On the drive out we saw a genuine cattle drive near the Rio Grande River and made it to Creede in time for the enchiladas, which were so good that we ordered seconds. We parted company and while Tim headed home, I called to find out if the Northwest Airlines mechanics were going on strike. I'd planned on staying three more days in Colorado to climb Drift Peak and Meeker Ridge, but with the strike imminent I flew home early. I arrived three hours before they struck.
Jagged Mountain was a great choice to finish the high hundred on. The memorable trip will go down as one of the hardest climbs I've ever done and for having some of the scariest exposure I've ever dealt with. Many thanks to Tim for convincing me that we really could do this peak and to Gerry and Jennifer Roach for their excellent route description.
Beartown trailhead to high camp at 11,100 feet- 10 hours 50 minutes
High camp to summit- 5 hours 27 minutes
Summit back to high camp- 4 hours 35 minutes
High camp to Vallecito camp- 2 hours 10 minutes
Vallecito camp to trailhead- 5 hours 37 minutes
Total mileage- 25 miles
Total elevation gain- 8400 feet