El Diente (14,159) by Brian Schultz Tuesday August 3, 1999
Tim headed back to the Springs early Monday while I slept in. Having the day off allowed plenty of time to get to the Silver Pick trailhead and I took it slow packing up. I was feeling pretty good about our success in the Chicago Basin and looking forward to El Diente. After an early lunch I drove up to Silverton and got discouraged when it started raining again. Between Silverton and Ouray, traffic was stopped in both directions for a long time while a road crew cleared a mud and rock slide from the road. This rain was something else!
Bumper to bumper cars all the way to Ouray made it feel like rush hour on a big city interstate but it cleared after Ouray and an easy drive brought me to the Silver Pick road and a small camping area about a half mile from the trailhead. I pulled in before dark, made dinner and tried to stretch out in the front seat. Last year after climbing both Wilsons I claimed I wasn't going back to the Silver Pick but I changed my mind because I knew my way around up there pretty well after four times and didn't want to chance getting lost in the Kilpacker.
Sleeping in the car proved to be an exercise in futility and I woke up long before the alarm rang. After a quick bite I departed at 4:55 by flashlight. The last switchback, which was such a mess last year, had now been smoothed out- if I'd known, I could have driven all the way to the trailhead in my car. First light revealed overcast skies and I scooted along at a good pace up the road. Beyond the mine, the scenic trail to the left had a sign warning to stay off it because it was private property. That sign wasn't there last year and I debated going up it anyway, but being the obedient one I didn't. Instead, just past it I followed the old road into the Silver Pick basin, passed the remains of the old cabin, and cruised up to the Rock of Ages saddle, getting there at 7:30. All the high peaks that were so impressive to look at last year were now barely visible in the clouds. It started misting and I still hadn't seen anybody yet- strange to have the whole area to myself. And eerily quiet- no birds, marmots, nothing. I might as well have been in some remote corner of the world.
I made note of the couloir to be climbed across Navajo Basin and felt confident of the route, but after descending into the basin both El Diente and Mt Wilson were totally fogged in along with the connecting ridge and the top of the snow-filled couloir. I saw a tent by the lake while heading to the couloir but no sign of anybody there either. The snow in the couloir was steep and I crossed over into the next gully but it was tough going in the limited visibility. The uncairned route above the snow is on loose, steep rock and I couldn't find a way to the ridge, let alone see it. The clouds broke momentarily to get a peek at the Organ Pipes and I spent a long time here working my way up to the ridge before finally finding a place to get on it.
I found the ridge to be extremely steep and exposed and stayed on the top all the way- lots of up and down scrambling before reaching the summit at 11:10 (6 hours and 15 minutes from the car). I stayed only to sign the register because it started drizzling and I couldn't see a thing- and the potential for danger increased with everything now wet and slippery. My descent was cautious and very slow, even so, once below the ridge I slipped as loose rocks gave way under me and I slid about ten feet before catching myself.
Upon reaching the couloir with the snow I made what turned out to be a foolish decision. Having spent so much time going down at this point I felt a glissade was in order. Sitting down, I began and suddenly took off like a runaway train. I tried digging in my heels and arresting with the axe from a sitting position but couldn't stop. I was heading straight for a clump of rocks and flipped to my side just as I hit them, sending them flying and arresting finally. It all happened so fast and lucky for me I only bruised my thigh- in those few seconds before impact I pictured breaking a foot or an ankle. Sidestepping down the snow the rest of the way, I made it back to Navajo Basin and turned around to look up. Wow! Unable to see how steep it really was in the morning with the low cloud cover, a break in the clouds now revealed an incredibly steep pitch! Scary what could have happened with no help around.
The descent from the summit to Navajo Basin had taken two and a half slow hours and it was raining steady as I trudged up to the old shack at the Rock of Ages saddle. My legs were weary and I was starving. I took a lunch break inside the made for a midget shack, soaking wet and too cold to sit for long. So I left for the short jaunt up to the saddle and slowly and carefully made my way down the also very loose and wet rock into the Silver Pick, eventually picking up the old road again. For the first time the whole day I saw some people- two backpackers on their way to Navajo Basin. They were hiking together but would be splitting in the morning, one going for Mt Wilson, the other for El Diente. I gave the one a warning about the couloir when he mentioned he was looking forward to the snow in it.
After a brief visit I dragged on and finally reached the car at 4:45. Despite the long day and difficulties, I was satisfied- El Diente completed my San Juan fourteeners.
I disagree with the novice rating by Dawson describing this route. In good weather the route may be fairly straightforward but that doesn't make the steep snow, loose rock and exposed ridge any easier. As careful as I was, I kicked down rocks- a helmet should be used if others are above in the gullies. With the total elevation gain (5600 ft from my car), long distance and time, and difficult climbing conditions, it ranks as one of my hardest fourteeners.
Total hiking and climbing- 11 hours and 50 minutes