Bilk Basin scouting report for Gladstone Peak (13,913) by Brian Schultz Friday July 16, 2004
After a much too short night of sleep in Telluride we drove up to the Silver Pick trailhead. It seemed odd to be the only vehicle parked up there but we found out why soon enough. With headlamps beaming, we approached the gate at 5:00 AM and were just about to step around it when Tim said to hold up, as there was a notice posted. My heart sank when we read that the owner was no longer allowing access to the Southwest Ridge on Wilson Peak or the Rock of Ages saddle because they were on his property.
Fourteener Wilson Peak was officially closed to climbers and, for that matter, so was Mt Wilson, El Diente and Gladstone Peak via the Silver Pick Basin. I could hardly believe it. I'd been up the Silver Pick six times before, knew the basin well, and was looking forward to leading today. We considered ignoring the warning but neither of us was willing to chance being cited and have to explain trespassing in court so we just stood there mulling our misfortune.
I started thinking about those comfortable beds back in Telluride and how my weary body could use some more sleep but Tim wasn't about to let the day go to waste. He suggested we drive to Durango and try to switch our train tickets a day early but, unfortunately, there wasn't enough time to do that and get the backpacks prepared.
Since we were ready to hike anyway, I suggested we scout the Bilk Basin approach to Gladstone and get familiar with that route for next year. Making the summit today wouldn't likely happen with such a late start but at least we could get a hike in. Tim liked the idea and grabbed the Roaches' book for directions and minutes later we were on our way to the Sunshine Mesa trailhead.
The Silver Pick closing was also posted on the gate at this trailhead, even naming Rusty Nichols as the property owner. We began at 6:30 and hiked two miles on the old road to the Morning Star Mine, an easy stretch that only took 45 minutes. Finding the Lizard Head trail in the mine area was a bit of a challenge, thanks to a misplaced cairn off to the side, but Tim eventually found it behind a large trailer at the end of the road. The old trailer with intact tires effectively concealed the trail, but once on the other side, we followed what turned out to be an excellent trail all the way to upper Bilk Basin.
We left the trail in the high part of the basin, hiked up to a lake, and stopped for a short break to survey the remainder of the route. Several climbers were seen on the top of Wilson Peak and even though I wanted to believe they were up there legitimately, I had my doubts. We continued around the lake and began climbing up very steep and rough talus to 12,700 feet elevation but decided to quit there because it was already 11:10 and ugly weather was moving in. The summit wasn't that far away but the rough ridge would be time consuming and offer little protection or escape from lightning. We studied the terrain to the ridge, satisfied we'd remember the route for next year, and turned around.
After a brief break at the lake for a photo of Lizard Head we began the six mile hike back to the trailhead and arrived there at 2:25, barely beating the nasty thunderstorm following us. It unleashed lightning everywhere so the decision to retreat was a good one.
If the Silver Pick is still closed next year we'll climb Gladstone from Bilk Basin. Too bad we hiked 12 miles without getting the summit but it was an enjoyable day otherwise and we had plenty of time to get ready for Chicago Basin.
Start to finish- 7 hours 55 minutes